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How Austrian climber Babsi Zangerl completed a ‘hard to believe’ historic ascent of El Capitan
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On a vertical rockface like El Capitan, the soaring slab of granite in California’s Yosemite National Park, perfection is an elusive, almost impossible goal for professional climbers.

It can take years of experience to master a route to the top of the 3,000-foot wall, such is its difficulty and magnitude. That’s precisely why Babsi Zangerl’s recent “flash” of El Cap is so unique and impressive.

In climbing, to “flash” a route is to reach the top on the first attempt without any falls – a feat never before achieved on El Cap prior to Zangerl’s maiden summit of Freerider last month. From bottom to top, she was faultless.

“It was hard to believe,” the Austrian climber tells CNN Sport. “I was so surprised that this just happened and that I didn’t fall … I could have fallen so many times on that climb.”
Freerider is a popular route up El Capitan, the same one taken by Alex Honnold when he climbed the rockface without ropes or harnesses in the Oscar-winning documentary “Free Solo.”

Zangerl has lots of experience climbing on El Cap and around Yosemite but had never previously attempted the 30-plus pitches up Freerider. The challenging Monster Offwidth section – a 60-meter-long (almost 197 feet) crack around halfway through the climb – had put her off, and flashing the route, she says, wasn’t a long-standing target for her.

“It was more that we just could try to go flash and see how far we can get,” Zangerl explains. “But the expectations were really low, so it was not a big goal from the beginning … There are some really slabby pitches where you don’t have hand holds, so you’re mostly standing on the bad feet, and you always can slip off.

“The chance was really low – I didn’t have the feeling that we have a big chance on the flash.”

It was only once she had conquered the Boulder Problem – perhaps the hardest, most treacherous part of the climb with only razor-thin holds on which to grip – that the flash seemed possible.

“Then it was kind of: you don’t want to f**k it up on the last part,” says Zangerl.

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In 1990, Derek Barclay was 21 and studying to become a construction engineer. He’d saved up money from an unglamorous summer job building a prison to buy an Interrail pass.

“Then, I dumped my bag at my mum’s house and said, ‘I’m off to Europe.’ She was horrified,” Derek tells CNN Travel today.

“The idea was to go from Casablanca to Istanbul. But I never went to either. Along the way I met Nina and I got distracted …”

While Nina and Derek formally met for the first time on the stalled train in Belgrade, Derek had first spotted Nina on a busy station platform, some hours earlier, in Budapest.

When he spotted her sitting on a bench, smiling and laughing with Loa, Derek was struck by Nina right away. For a moment, he imagined getting to know her, what she might be like. Where she might be from, where she might be going.

But then Derek had ended up on a different train. He’d met and got chatting to Steve the Englishman and Paul the Irishman. The trio had shared a couple of beers, fallen asleep, and woken, with a start, in Belgrade, to a suddenly-empty carriage. That’s when they panicked.

“We woke up, and just ran down the railway line — because we’re just about to miss this train to Athens — we jumped on the train as it was pulling away, and then it stopped,” Derek tells CNN Travel today. “Apparently that’s what they had to do to get the strike official.”

When Derek, Steve and Paul opened the door to Nina’s carriage, Derek didn’t immediately take Nina in, focusing instead on the near-empty compartment.

“Two of them in there, this carriage for eight, they’d spread stuff everywhere. It was obvious it was a ruse to try and get people not to go in. And we thought, ‘We’re not having any of that,’” says Derek, laughing. “So we squeezed in, and that was that.”

It was only when he ended up sitting opposite Nina that Derek realized she was the woman he’d noticed on the Budapest train platform.

Then they got chatting, and didn’t stop. They talked about a shared love of nature. About Derek being a member of Greenpeace. About Sweden and Scotland.

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